Buying a Used Seamless Gutter Machine
What to decide, inspect, and test before buying a used seamless gutter machine, whether it comes loose, on a trailer, or in a truck.
Seamless gutter machines are among the most commonly traded used machines in the roofing world. They are compact, they often come mounted in a truck or trailer, and plenty of contractors buy one to add gutters to a roofing business or to start a gutter crew. That also means there are a lot of tired machines out there. This guide covers what to decide before you shop, what to inspect, how to test the gutter it produces, and what usually needs attention after purchase.
Decide what you will run
Gutter machines are built around a profile and size. Before browsing seamless gutter machines, settle these questions:
- Profile. K-style, half-round, fascia, box, or a commercial profile. Most machines run one profile; some can be converted with additional tooling, but not all.
- Size. Common residential sizes differ from the larger sizes used on commercial and high-volume roofs. Make sure the machine runs the size your market actually orders.
- Material. Aluminum is the most common for residential seamless gutters, but some crews also run painted steel or copper. Ask what the machine has run and what the manufacturer intended it for, since heavier or harder material can be beyond what a lighter machine was built to form.
- Power. Electric machines need a reliable power source on site; some setups use a generator in the truck. Others may use a gas engine. Find out what you will need to run it every day.
- Downspouts. If you also want to make downspouts, that is usually a separate machine. See downspout machines.
Truck, trailer, or loose machine
Used gutter machines are listed in three main ways, and each changes what you need to inspect:
| Setup | Advantages | Extra things to check |
|---|---|---|
| Machine only | Simplest purchase; you choose your own truck or trailer | How you will mount it, coil racks, power, and whether brackets are included |
| Trailer-mounted | Can be towed by different trucks; easy to leave on site | Trailer title, tires, bearings, brakes, lights, coupler, mounting bolts, coil reel condition |
| Truck-mounted | Ready to work; often includes racks, ladder storage, and coil holders | Full vehicle inspection, title, mileage, rust, mounting points, and whether the truck can carry the load safely |
With a truck package, you are effectively buying two used machines. A good gutter machine on a worn-out truck may not be a bargain, and a strong truck can hide a tired machine. Price and inspect them separately. Trailer buyers should also look at roll former trailers for comparison.
Checking a truck or trailer package
If the machine comes mounted, spend real time on the vehicle side:
- Look under the bed or trailer deck at the mounting points. Cracked welds, rusted brackets, or bolts that have been replaced with mismatched hardware suggest the mount has worked loose at some point.
- Check the frame and floor under the coil racks for rust. Coil weight sits in one spot day after day, and water collects there.
- Make sure the machine is level and square to the bed. A machine mounted out of line can still run, but feeding coil becomes harder.
- Confirm ladder racks, toolboxes, and lighting are solid and wired properly, since those are often included in the sale.
- Find out the empty and loaded weight if the seller knows it, and compare it with what the truck or trailer is rated to carry. Do not guess on this one.
Match the machine to your workload
A machine that is right for a crew doing a few houses a week may not be right for a company feeding several crews or doing commercial work. Think about how many feet of gutter you expect to run on a busy day, how far you travel to jobs, and whether you need the machine on site or can run gutter in the shop and haul it. Also consider whether you will keep coil stocked in several colors. Machines that hold more coils on the reel can save trips, but they add weight and size. If you are not sure, ask other gutter contractors on the community board how they set up for similar volume.
Questions to ask the seller
- What brand and model is it, and what is the serial number? Can you send a photo of the plate?
- What profile and size does it run, and has it ever been converted?
- What material and thickness has it run, and how often?
- How was it stored when not in use, especially in winter?
- Has it had any roll, bearing, drive, or shear work, and by whom?
- Is the coil reel or cradle included, and how many coils does it hold?
- Is there a spare shear blade or cutoff guide?
- Can you run gutter for me in person, or send an unedited video of a full length being formed and cut?
- For truck or trailer packages: is the title clear and in your name?
Inspecting the machine
Do the visual checks with power disconnected. Bring a flashlight, tape measure, and a straightedge.
Rolls and forming stations
- Check the rolls for corrosion, pitting, and buildup of aluminum or paint. Aluminum pickup on rolls is common and can mark finished gutter.
- Look closely at the rolls that form the bead and the back flange. Chips or wear there show up quickly in the finished gutter.
- Check roll shafts for play and listen for rough bearings when you turn the drive by hand, if the design allows.
Drive and belts
- Inspect drive chains, sprockets, and belts for wear, cracks, stretch, and correct tension.
- Look at drive rollers for flat spots, glazing, or cracking. Worn drive rollers can cause slipping and inconsistent feed.
- Check for oil or grease leaks around gearboxes and bearings.
Shear or cutoff
- Inspect the blade for nicks, dull spots, and rolled edges.
- Make sure the shear die matches the profile and size.
- Operate the shear and check that it moves freely and returns completely.
Electrical
- Check cords, switches, plugs, and any controls for damage, corrosion, or makeshift repairs.
- Look for signs of water getting into switch boxes, especially on machines stored outside or in an open truck bed.
- Confirm the motor and controls match the power you have, and test the emergency stop.
Coil holder and entry
- Check that the coil reel turns freely, the brake or tension works, and the cradle is not bent.
- Check entry guides for wear and that they adjust properly.
Run gutter and check it
Ask the seller to run several lengths in coil similar to what you plan to buy. Long pieces reveal tracking and twist problems that a short piece can hide. Check:
| Check | What you want to see |
|---|---|
| Profile dimensions | Width, depth, and back height consistent from end to end and match the stated size |
| Straightness | Gutter lies straight along a flat surface or string line; no sweep or snake |
| Twist | Ends sit flat; no corkscrew along longer runs |
| Bead and hem | Front bead fully formed and even; back flange and hem consistent |
| Finish | No scratches, scuffs, or roll marks; paint not cracked at bends |
| Cut end | Square cut, no crush or tear, minimal burr |
| Accessory fit | Your end caps, hangers, miters, and outlets fit the profile |
Bring a couple of end caps and a hanger from your usual supplier. If they do not fit the gutter the machine produces, you will either need different accessories or the machine needs adjustment. Better to find out now.
What commonly needs attention after purchase
Even a good used gutter machine often needs a little work. Items buyers commonly end up dealing with include:
- Cleaning aluminum and paint buildup off the rolls.
- Replacing worn drive rollers, belts, or chains.
- Sharpening or replacing the shear blade.
- Replacing bearings that are noisy or rough.
- Adjusting entry guides and rolls after transport.
- Rewiring damaged cords or switches.
Ask the manufacturer or a service tech whether parts are available for the specific model before you buy, especially for older or less common machines. If you need a service tech, ask on the community board.
Pricing considerations
Used gutter machine prices vary with brand, age, size, profile, condition, and whether a truck or trailer is included. A truck package might look expensive next to a machine-only listing but include everything needed to start work. Compare like with like, then subtract what you expect to spend on parts, tires, transport, and repairs. Inspection findings are fair negotiating points. Our guide to what affects used roll former prices explains the main factors in more depth, and much of it applies to gutter machines too.
Closing the deal safely
The site does not inspect, guarantee, or hold payment for any listing. Before paying:
- See the machine run in person, or have someone you trust do it.
- Match the serial number on the machine to the bill of sale.
- Verify the truck or trailer title and VIN.
- Use a traceable payment method and avoid wiring money to an unverified seller.
- Be cautious of unusually low prices combined with pressure to pay quickly.
The safety tips page has more advice on spotting fraud, and our guide to avoiding scams when buying equipment online goes further.
Can’t find the right machine?
Gutter machines turn over regularly. Check the used listings often, and post a wanted ad listing the profile, size, and setup you want. Sellers sometimes have a machine sitting idle that they never got around to listing.
Ask the community
If you have questions about a specific machine or profile, post them on the community board. Members who run gutter crews can tell you what wears first on a given model and what they would check before buying.
Frequently asked questions
Can a used gutter machine be converted to a different size or profile?
Some can and some cannot. It depends on the machine design and whether conversion tooling exists and is still available for that model. Conversions can involve significant parts and setup work. Ask the manufacturer or a service tech with the serial number before buying a machine you plan to convert, rather than assuming it will be straightforward.
Should I buy a gutter machine that comes with a truck?
A truck package can get you working quickly, but you are buying two used machines at once. Inspect the truck as carefully as the gutter machine, including title, mileage, rust, brakes, tires, and whether it can safely carry the machine and coil. Price each part separately so you know what you are really paying for.
Why does gutter from a used machine have scratches?
Scratches or scuffs often come from aluminum or paint buildup on the rolls, burrs on entry guides, or damaged roll surfaces. Cleaning the rolls and guides sometimes solves it. If marks repeat in the same spot even after cleaning, a specific roll may be damaged and need repair or replacement. Check finished gutter carefully during the test run.
Do I need a separate machine for downspouts?
In most cases, yes. Downspout forming is usually done on a separate machine designed for that purpose. If you want to make your own downspouts, look for a downspout machine as a separate purchase, or ask whether the seller has one available alongside the gutter machine.
Have a question this guide didn't answer? Ask people who run these machines every day.